There are few traditions more quintessentially British than afternoon tea. But for tourists, there can be pitfalls – from forgetting the right attire to knowing when to add milk. This is where afternoon tea expert Eileen Donaghey comes in. Along with hosting tea events and offering guided afternoon tea experiences in London and Belfast, she advises venues and has written an e-book on hosting afternoon tea at home.
She spills the tea (…sorry!) on which London hotel offers the “perfect” afternoon tea, whether cream or jam goes on a scone first and why cream teas sometimes disappoint – and settles the score, once and for all, about whether you really should stick your pinkie out over a cuppa.
How does someone become an “afternoon tea expert”?
It started more as an accident. I set up an Instagram account, and I really enjoyed going and trying different afternoon teas. Then I went on to do qualifications and further research in the history of tea and tea itself. I’m a step below a tea sommelier.
What makes afternoon tea special?
The atmosphere. It’s very relaxed – there isn’t another meal like it. If you go to lunch, or brunch, or dinner, there’s always a time when you have to get up and leave. Whereas afternoon tea is a very leisurely affair. And because it’s not something you would do every day – unless you’re me! – you look forward to it.
If you and I were going for afternoon tea, I would tell you my life story, I would find out everything about you. There’s a lot of connection to be had over afternoon tea.
How is afternoon tea different from a cream tea or high tea?
Cream tea is the smallest of all. Someone might be disappointed if they thought they were going to get three tiers of food – it’s a cup of tea or a pot of tea with scones, and that’s it. Because it’s small, you could do that in the morning if you wanted, before lunch or as a little pick-me-up in the afternoon.
Afternoon tea is your sandwiches, scones and your pastries along with tea. It’s best between 15:00 and 16:00. But you can go over lunchtime if you’re pressed for time.
High tea is everything you get with afternoon tea, plus extras like quiche, pies or other meatier-type hype items. It’s more substantial than afternoon tea. Normally you would eat it a bit later.
How is afternoon tea still relevant today?
Right across the UK, afternoon tea is such a big thing. We have a full week dedicated to tea in August, which is Afternoon Tea Week. It’s also very popular for birthdays, baby showers as well – all sorts of occasions where you might not want a big alcohol focus but have a little bit of luxury. And Instagram really has improved popularity. A lot of the big venues and hotels compete for the best afternoon tea.
Where would you take someone for a traditional five-star tea?
I do my events in the JW Marriott Grosvenor House on Park Lane in Mayfair. That’s my favourite place to go if you want the works. It’s pretty traditional, and the room that they serve it in is an art deco style. It’s always perfect, every time.
What about a modern, hip afternoon tea?
Sketch, near Oxford Circus. It’s one of those really conceptual venues. It always changes, you never really know what you’re going to get, but for example, when I went, in the cocktail room they had an art installation of a storm in a teacup which basically took up the entire room. It’s so different and unusual, and the tea is great as well.
What makes for a “perfect” afternoon tea?
Great service. Scones that break right down the middle. A good selection of jelly, instead of just one type. And then a good range of loose-leaf tea. Being able to change your tea for different courses is quite a nice touch. And sandwiches – some venues don’t put as much effort into the flavour, but I think if you get a sandwich so good it stops you talking, that’s wonderful.
What’s your favourite sandwich, and where?
I love a smoked salmon sandwich. My grandmother was a fishmonger, so I know a good quality one when I see it. Or the egg mayonnaise. It’s so simple, but if you do it perfectly, it is amazing. The Stafford does really good ones.
What are the biggest blunders you see tourists making at afternoon tea?
The dress code. I know a lot of tourists when they go to London, they’ve got their jeans on. But some hotels will not let you in. Some have a dress code on their website, but generally the strictest ones would expect women to wear smart shoes, no trainers, no jeans, no sportswear. Men need to wear a collar, tie and jacket. Even if you’re missing a tie, they won’t let you in.
Also, book in advance. That’s a rule for all afternoon tea. You can’t just rock up on the day.
Pinky fingers – in or out?
Don’t stick out your pinky finger. It’s considered rude. In the Bridgerton days, if you were drinking tea and you found someone attractive, you would point at them to let them know that you wanted to see them outside.
Other etiquette tips?
Make sure that you stick to the same course that everyone else is on. Everyone starts with the savouries. Then then you move on to scones, and then you finish with the pastry course. Don’t just jump ahead.
Another one is not having your one phone on the table. Take your pictures at the start, and then sit and enjoy the meal. There seem to be more people that take a lot of pictures, and it can be off-putting for other people in the room.
Noted. That being said… where would you say is the most striking afternoon tea in London, aesthetically?
The Shangri-La in the Shard has a very Instagrammable afternoon tea. They change their themes quite a lot. So, they might have a really pink tea, or a festive one. They basically transform the whole room. For Christmas, there’s a sleigh and you can get your picture in it, for example.
Loose-leaf tea or tea bags?
Loose-leaf. There is a big difference between how the leaves are broken with loose-leaf tea and tea bags. If you were to cut open a tea bag, you’ll see the tea inside is really fine. Most loose-leaf tea leaves aren’t broken down as much, and that means that they really hold their flavour. If it’s an everyday tea, I don’t want to go to huge expense, but I do make sure that it’s a better-quality tea and that the leaves are not broken down too much.
Best afternoon tea for the quality of tea itself?
I love popping into Camellia’s Teahouse, a hidden gem beside the British Museum. They have a huge selection of teas and really know how to brew tea the correct way.
For those who can’t make it to London, what are the best ways to enjoy a cup of tea at home?
The most important thing is to make sure you follow the brewing instructions. That sounds so simple, but really is something that people skip on. For example, in the UK, we drink black tea all the time. If you drink green tea, people usually make it in the same way. And that’s wrong. It really affects the taste. It can make green tea very bitter.
Also, knowing what you shouldn’t put milk into. I’ve seen people put milk in Darjeeling, which is a big no-no [due to its delicate flavour]. These things seem so basic but will really make a big difference in how it should taste.
Final question: on a scone – jam first or cream first?
I put cream first. But it’s personal preference. Unless you’re in Cornwall [jam first] or Devon [cream first], where people get very heated about this topic. I’ve had people tell me that I’m wrong.
